by David Burn | Dec 31, 2005 | Film, Food & Beverage, Place
If you enjoy wine, Mondovino, a documentary by Jonathan Nossiter, is a must see. The film has a fascinating cast of characters, and its central theme explores the mounting tension between local producers and global behemoths like Napa’s Robert Mondavi and Sons.
Aimé Guibert of Languedoc and Hubert de Montille of Bordeaux, both determined believers in terroir–the sense of place that gives wine its true character–are the clear heroes in the film. Michel Rolland, a wine consultant who espouses the values of modernization and the Mondavi family who value globalization are the villians.
Hubert de Montille told The Telegraph, “I am un partisan du terroir. But you have vin terroir all over the world, including the United States – wherever you have people who cherish diversity and individuality in wine. For me, the battle isn’t between Europe and the US. It is industrial wine against the culture of wine, that’s the real conflict. These big companies are so powerful and their ambition is so great that they may not keep a space open for vin terroir, for all wine that has a sense of place, rather than just a sense of marketing.”
Southern France’s Languedoc region is one of the places where this conflict was most recently fought. Mondavi had identified forested land in Aniane as suitable for making world-class wine, but citizens of the town with the aid of their Communist mayor rebuked their advances.
According to Wine Spectator, Mondavi had planned to spend about $8 million developing the vineyard and building a showcase winery, which would eventually produce up to 20,000 cases per year of high-end Syrah.
But the site they chose was on the 2,200-acre undeveloped massif, which is flanked by woods and nearly impenetrable bush (known as garrigue), and topped by 750-foot-high plateaus with sweeping views. Hunters, ecologists and naturalists fought against any development in the area, which they consider an environmental shrine.
Mondavi was in part attracted to Aniane because it is home to one of the finest wineries in southern France, Mas de Daumas Gassac, which makes a long-lived red wine in Aniane. But the winery’s founder, Aimé Guibert, criticized Mondavi for wanting to develop a winery on public land.
by David Burn | Oct 22, 2005 | Place
According to reports on CNN and on American Discovery Trail’s own site, Ken and Marcia Powers from Pleasanton, California, became the first hikers to complete a continuous backpack of the country’s first Atlantic-to-Pacific trail.
Ken and Marcia started their 4,900-mile trek from the Atlantic coast in Delaware’s Cape Henlopen State Park on February 27, and took only four rest days on the entire 231-day jaunt.
The Powers had previously completed hiking the “triple crown” (three of the country’s 2,000-mile-plus trails: the Appalachian, Continental Divide, and Pacific Crest). But this is their longest and most impressive accomplishment yet.
These amazing retirees, both in their 50s, saw the wonders of our nation on foot, not in an RV. And as they followed the American Discovery Trail through 13 states, they experienced the best scenery the country has to offer and inspiring acts of generosity from their fellow citizens in this adventure of a lifetime.
They overcame deep snow in the East, a quicksand scare in Utah, close lightning strikes in the Midwest and blinding desert sandstorms in the West while averaging 22 miles a day and taking only four days off during the entire journey.
Joyce and Pete Cottrell, of Whitefield, New Hampshire, were the first to backpack the entire official route of the American Discovery Trail, but they hiked segments out of sequence over two calendar years, finishing in 2003.
The trail officially opened in 2000, 11 years after it was proposed by hiking enthusiasts as the first coast-to-coast footpath.
by David Burn | Oct 4, 2005 | Place
We went to Greenville, South Carolina for the weekend. This is what it looks like at Falls Park in the center of town. The Liberty Bridge over the Reedy River is one of only two suspension footbridges in the world. The other is in France.
Greenville has a vital downtown. It was busy with pedestrians on Saturday and Sunday. The city planners must read Jane Jacobs.
The city boasts a new tea bar and non-corporate coffee thanks to Coffee Underground on Coffee St. Yeah! I love non-corporate coffee, locally roasted and prepared by a caring, professional barista.
Adjacent to downtown, Greenville’s West End is a developing art and warehouse district with historic lofts and lots of new construction. A new baseball park for the Greenville Bombers is slated to be built in the neighborhood.
We ate dinner at Smoke On The Water, a West End establishment that serves a mean brisket and kindly features Rogue’s HazleNut Brown Nectar on tap, a true delicacy from coastal Oregon.
On one hand, Greenville may indeed be the “buckle on the Bible Belt,” as we were told it was by one well-meaning gent. On the other, it’s clearly a sophisticated small city with a lot to offer.
by David Burn | Sep 24, 2005 | Place
We’re visiting St. Augustine, Florida this weekend.
St. Augustine is the oldest continually occupied European settlement in the continental United States; only San Juan on Puerto Rico predates the city as the oldest settlement within the territory of the United States. The city was founded by the Spanish admiral Pedro Menéndez de Avilés on August 28, 1565, the feast day of Augustine of Hippo, and consequently named by him San AgustÃn. This came 21 years before the English settlement at Roanoke Island in Virginia Colony and 42 years before the successful settlements of Santa Fe, New Mexico and Jamestown, Virginia.
Over the next one hundred years, the city was defended by nine wooden forts. Following an attack in 1668, it was decided by the Queen Regent of Spain, Mariana, that a masonry fortification be constructed to protect the city. In October 1672 construction began on the fort that would become the Castillo de San Marcos. In 1670, Charles Town (modern-day Charleston, South Carolina) was founded by the British. This was one of the events that spurred the fort’s construction, being just two days sail from St. Augustine.
The Castillo is made of a stone called “coquina”, literally “little shells”. The coquina was very effective at absorbing the impact of canon balls, causing very little damage to the walls themselves, but much consternation for enemy ships.
[update] We took the scenic route home, heading up A1A to Jacksonville Beach before crossing the St. John’s River by ferry at Mayport, a village with docks lined by old shrimp boats. We continued north across Big and Little Talbot Island before reaching Amelia Island, where we were impressed by the large dunes (and equally large waves) that give the beach character.
by David Burn | Aug 17, 2005 | Place
I haven’t lived in Utah since 1997, and it’s a rare day that I actually miss the place. Sure, I miss my friends, but not necessarily the Beehive State. Today is different. I clicked through several of Heather Armstrong’s photos and sure enough the nostalgia kicked in. Today, I miss Utah and my friends.
Quite possibly the best Mexican restaurant in the world
by David Burn | Aug 3, 2005 | Place
We were in Myrtle Vegas Sunday night for Ben Harper at House of Blues. We had ideas about visiting the beach, grinding at a seafood buffet and playing miniature golf, but alas the dripping cheese was too much and Monday morning we motored in a southerly direction as fast as possible. Twenty minutes past historic but industrial Georgetown, we stumbled upon the small seaport town of McClellanville.
McClellanville, along with Awendaw and the surrounding area, is located in The Cape Romain community between Charleston and Georgetown in Charleston County. It is surrounded by the 350,000 acres of The Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, The Francis Marion National Forest, and the Santee Coastal Reserve.
Given its natural beauty, arts scene and proximity to Charleston, one has to wonder how long this town can remain sleepy. We inquired locally and there are some newcomers, and resentment about that fact among the denizens, who we understand are mostly related.
by David Burn | Jul 20, 2005 | Food & Beverage, Lowcountry, Place
I have had no Thai food for six months, and that’s not a recipe one wants to follow. Thankfully, all that changed last night, as we met an old friend at Kao, a French-infused Thai restaurant on Savannah’s east side.
Adam and I both opted for salmon in green curry sauce. Darby had cashew chicken and Adam’s friends shared mussles and a bottle of champagne. The service was outstanding, the decor inviting and the food perfect.
by David Burn | Jun 14, 2005 | Digital culture, Lowcountry, Place
Heather and Jon (two Utahns I do not know, except through their respective blogs) attended a wedding in Beaufort recently. Here’s some of what they reported.
Heather: While on vacation in South Carolina we took a leisurely (HA! Jon has scars from all my nagging TO GET A MOVE ON) trip to Fripp Island, a private beach where rich white people roam around in golf carts. We had packed swimsuits and thought that we could pick up sunscreen on the 20 mile drive out, but the gas station we picked had none in stock. They did, however, have four-foot-wide barrels of ice and beer sitting at the end of each aisle, you know, in case anyone got thirsty on their long drive. I HAVE BEEN IN UTAH WAY TOO LONG.
Jon: I’ve been to Austin, I’ve been to Memphis, I’ve been to Talahassee, I’ve been to Apalachicola and I’ve even been to Charleston. However, I’d have to say that our recent trip to Beaufort, South Carolina was the south I’d always heard about. It is the most southern city I’ve ever visited.
This couple likes to take photos and they’re not shy about sharing them. Here’s Jon’s Flickr set from the trip, and here’s Heather’s.
by David Burn | May 24, 2005 | Place
Mark and Heather done got hitched. The setting for this union could not have been more dramatic. H, a native of St. Simon’s, chose Driftwood Beach on neighboring Jekyll Island for the ceremony. Reports have it her grandmother was responsible for the perfect Sunday weather.
Weddings are almost always festive occasions—this one, especially so. From the Colorado High Country they came, dozens of smiling faces and dancing feet, belonging to friends I had not seen in too long a while.
Many blessings to the happy couple!
by David Burn | May 19, 2005 | Place
Last Saturday, we headed in a northwest direction to Thoroughbred Country—not to ride horses, but to hear live bluegrass. In fact, we knew nothing of the horsey set, awaiting us in Aiken. We learned quickly.
As it happens, Aiken is known throughout the world as an equestrian training center, claiming National Champions such as 1981 Kentucky Derby winner, Pleasant Colony; 1990 Preakness winner, Summer Squall; 1993 Kentucky Derby winner, Sea Hero; and Kelso, Horse of the Year for five consecutive years in the 1960s.
The source of this equine foothold? Long famed as a winter resort for some of America’s wealthiest families—the Goodyear’s, Whitney’s, Astor’s and Vanderbilt’s included—Aiken is no stranger to leisure class interests and activities. Rolling hills, pine-scented air and pleasant weather will do that to a place.
